July 2017 | ROSES AND WINE

Materials::

Ruler

French Curve

Paper

Pencil

My measurements for reference:

Bust:32 inches 8.5

Waist:24 inches 6.5

Hip: 34 inches 9

Torso Length: 22 inches

Directions:

Front of Shirt

Fold paper in half
Draw a line 5 inches from center. Mark as Point A.
Draw a line 22 inches down from Point A and mark as Point B. Line AB is the torso length.
Draw a line 3.5 inches to the right of Point A and mark as C. Line AC is the neck of the shirt. 3.5 inches should be plenty. Only adjust if the person has a much larger neck.
From Point C draw a diagonal line to the edge. Point D is on Line AB. Point D will be used to draw the bust line. Line CE is the wrap front part of the shirt.
From Point C draw a line 3.5 inches to the right. Mark as Point F. Line CF should be slightly smaller than your shoulder length.
Draw a line 1 inch below F and mark as Point G. Line CG should be the length of the shoulder.
Draw a line down 22 inches down from Point F and mark as H.
From Point D draw a line to the right about 10.5 inches. Mark as Point I. Line DI is the ((bust measurement +2)/4) +2. For example, my Bust Measurement is 32 inches.
- 32+2 = 34 ( I add 2 inches for room)
- 34/4= 8.5
- 8.5+2=10.5 (This allows the shirt to be able to wrap and overlap nicely)
The waist line is about 5 inches down from Line DI. You have 2 options to determine where to draw waistline.
- Option 1 based on your measurement. This would the length from your bust to your waist.
- Option 2 based on Line DB. For me, Line DB is 12.5 inches long. I split it so that it would be a little less than half on top and more than half on bottom. 5 inches and 7.5 inches.
From Line DB, draw a line to the right about 8.5 inches and mark Point J. This line is the ((waist measurement +2)/4) +2.
Draw a line 11 inches to the right of Point B and mark as Point K. Line BK is the ((hip measurement +2)/4) +2.
Use the French Curve and ruler to connect points G&I, Points I &J, and Points J&K.
About 4 inches the right of Line DB on Line J mark Point L. Draw a line going through point L touching like DI and BK.
0.5 inches to the right and left of Point L mark Point M and Point N.
Draw a diamond using Points M and N. The top point should not touch line DI. I made it about 2 inches below. This can be determined but your bust radius.
Use the French Curve to draw the bust seam. If the person has a big bust and large bust radius, this seam should be drawn curvier.
Repeat and mirror steps for the other side.

Back of the Shirt

Fold the paper in half.
Mark Point A directly on center fold.
22 inches down from Point A mark Point B. Again Line AB is the torso length.
Draw a line to the right of Point A 3.5 inches long and mark Point C.
Go down 3.5 inches from Point A and mark Pont D.
Draw a line 2.5 inches to the right of Point D and mark as Point E.
Go back to Point C and draw a line to right 3.5 inches long and mark as Point F.
Draw a 1-inch line down from Point F and mark as Point G.
Draw a line down from Point F. I went down about 9.5 inches and marked point H. Line FH should be the same length as Line AD from the front.
From the center fold, draw a line 10. 5 inches that crosses through Point H and mark as Point I.
About 5 inches down from line I draw a line 8.5 inches from the center fold and mark as Point J.
From Point B draw a line 11 inches to the right and mark as point K.
Use the French Curve and ruler to connect Points G &I, Points I&J, and Points J&K.
On Line J, about 4 inches from the center fold mark point L.
0.5 inches to the right and left of Point L mark Point M and Point N
Draw a diamond. The tips of the diamond should touch Line I and Line BK. This is a waist dart.
Repeat and mirror steps for the other side.