Hmong Outfits Series :: Paj Ntaub Cog Ci

Hmong Clothes Paj Ntaub Cog Ci

Hi Everyone! Paj ntaub cog ci is trending again and I’m ecstatic! This outfit took me so long to make! I finished just in time to wear it to Hmong New Year. Honestly, it’s worth buying over making since I spent so much time sewing on sequins. Unlike the other outfits in my Hmong Outfit Series, this outfit doesn’t belong to a specific region. Paj ntaub cog ci was popular in the late 80’s and 90’s and showcases a period of innovation, transition, and adaptation.

:: Paj Ntaub Cog Ci ::

My cousin’s outfit reminded me of the outfits that I wore when I was younger. I had various Hmong outfits made out of the Thai skirt fabric material and I wanted to make an outfit that had elements of the past, incorporated my favorite colors, and that was more fitted.

IMG_0032-684x1024 Hmong Outfits Series :: Paj Ntaub Cog Ci Hmong Outfit Series OUTFITS

Photographer:: Tou Yang

Paj ntaub cog ci consists of embroidery and sequins. There are different patterns – some with more embroidery than others. Sequins are applied in the empty spaces. Sometimes lace is added on top of the borders surrounding the embroidery. I chose to omit the lace to have the blue stand out. I also took out the little triangles for two main reasons – I’m lazy and I don’t like them poking me. The outfit looks clean, simple, and there’s more focus on the blue and sequins.

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I made my shirt the traditional style just not as loose. This was because I thought that the fitted style with princess seams would be more difficult.  Since it would require me to align the diamonds at every seam and I had a limited amount of fabric to use.Then, I ran into another problem with the print of the fabric. I wanted the diamonds to run vertical and not horizontal because it give the illusion of being slimmer and if it ran horizontal I would look wider. So in the end I still had to align the diamonds. Usually with traditional shirts there isn’t a seam across the shoulders but if you look really closely on my shirt you can see the seam. I didn’t really care about the pattern matching super closely where I attached the sleeves though.

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Originally I wanted a 3/4 sleeve shirt but I made the mistake of cutting too much off of my sleeve embroidery.  Do you see a trend here? This entire process was a cycle of failure and compromise with way more patience than I thought I possessed. So I had to settle for a long sleeve shirt. Additionally, I made the shirt a little to small for me. Despite the mistakes along the way, I’m super excited to wear this outfit to Hmong New Year. I’m pairing it with the hat that I featured in this post.

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:: Outfit Details ::

Sequin Outfit

Phuam

Crossroads by Nancy White Pleated Skirt (37 X17.5)

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:: Photography ::

Sweet Capture Photography

Thank you for reading! I can’t wait to show the finished princess hat that I made to go with this outfit too. I’ll showcase it with a different outfit though. Something that is different than what I usually go for. I’m trying to stay away from sequins for a while  squeezing in some last minute projects before the year is over because I won’t be able to sew for a while.

Hmong Outfit Series :: Hmoob Moos Pheeb

Moos Pheeb Hmong Outfit

 Hi, Everyone! Are you excited for Hmong New Year??? As I finish more and more projects, I’m getting restless. I have so many outfits and not enough days to wear them! I try to placate myself with telling myself that there is always next year. Today, I am featuring a type of Hmong Leng outfit specifically Hmoob Moos Pheeb as part of my Hmong Outfit Series. I made the shirt, apron, and hat for this outfit, the rest of the pieces I bought.
IMG_6246-1024x683 Hmong Outfit Series :: Hmoob Moos Pheeb Hmong Outfit Series

:: Hmoob Moos Pheeb ::

Hmoob Moos Pheeb live in Central Laos. Moos Pheeb or Muang Pheng is a city that is located in modern day Xaisomboun province. In the past, Muang Pheng was in Xieng Khouang Province  close to the the border of the Vientiane province.

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There are two main types of headwraps that they wear-a black wrap or one with multiple siv ceeb.  Nowadays, the siv ceeb type is made into a ready to wear hat. Sometimes triangle shaped pieces of embroidery are attached to the back of the hat. I attempted to make my own hat for this outfit and I think I used about 13 layers of siv ceeb. I’ll admit it took me a couple of attempts to make it and it’s definitely worth buying. I just like trying to figure out how to make it.

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The shirt is similar to that of the Hmong Leng of Sayaboury with the dab tsho sewn face down. I opted to sew mine facing up because I wanted a some variation in my collection.  Hmong Moos Pheeb tend to wear their shirt so that the rows of appliqué shows. However, the sleeve length and width vary. I’ve seen longer tapered sleeves with a small cuff or wide short sleeves with a larger cuff. The cuff tends to be a dark blue.

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:: Xauv Ncais ::

In the past Hmong outfit series posts, the outfits I featured wear paired with a different type of xauv. Xauv that varied from 1 to 5 rings. My favorite xauv are the original 2-3 layer xauv from the Luang Prabang and and Sayaboury region of Laos. Tapered, round, and hollow – the torques are beautiful.  Hmoob Moos Pheeb pair their outfits with xauv ncais. This type of silver necklace can be simple or more elaborate decorated with different links and ornaments. The xauv ncais that I am wearing in the photo is an old traditional xauv. This xauv has a higher percentage of silver than the xauv that are currently being sold today. Presently, xauv are made of brass and silver and this is commonly referred to as “silver 2.” One benefit is that they are lighter and easier to wear.

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:: Moob Naav Tab Laab ::

This group of Hmong is sometimes referred to as “hmoob hnav tiab liab/ moob naav tab laab” (Hmong that wear red skirts). Hmoob Moos Pheeb wear a skirt with rows of red or pink appliqué on the middle of the skirt in between spaces in the batik design. Criss cross appliqué adorn the top of the middle section of the skirt followed by alternating straight lines and zig zags.

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The bottom of the skirt or  taw tiab/ taab tab consists of cross stitch embroidery – usually orange, pink, and white thread and some appliqué. Typically, green lines are appliqued along the taab tab. Additionally, the very bottom of the skirt is white and lacks appliqué. I love collecting and investing in Hmong skirts.  A single skirt consists of 5-6 yards of fabric! Just imagine the amount of time it takes to make one skirt. Honestly, if I spend my time making one I would never sell it. Traditionally, this outfit pairs with leg wraps/ nrhoob. Unfortunately, my nrhoob didn’t arrive on time for my shoot.

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:: Outfit Details ::

Hmoob Moos Pheeb Shirt/ Tsho & Apron/ Sev

Silver Necklace/ Xauv Ncais (old)

Sash/ Hlab (old)

Hmong Skirt/ Tiab (42 X 19.5)

Hat/ Phuam Siv Ceeb

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:: Photography ::

Nancy Vang

Thank you for reading! A lot of you have been waiting to see my finished paj ntaub cog ci outfit. I plan on sharing that outfit next and followed by my sequin princess hat or tutorial. While finishing up my outfits, I’ve been trying to make a men’s shirt. Once I have my pattern down I’ll share a picture tutorial with you all. Most likely, I’ll make myself a men’s shirt. Crop tops are in right? Let me know in the comments if you would be interested in learning how to make a men’s shirt.

*Outfit details pertains to my outfit, and the links provided are from sellers that I personally purchased from.

 

Hmong Outfit Series :: Hmong Leng Sayaboury

Hmong Leng Sayaboury Outfit

Hi, Everyone!  I can’t believe Hmong New Year celebrations have already started in California! I can’t wait to dress up and browse the stalls. Usually, I spend most of my time shopping. Today, I am featuring Hmong Leng Sayaboury as part of my Hmong Outfit Series. Previously, I featured the White Hmong of Sayaboury.

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:: Hmong Leng Sayaboury ::

Hmong Leng and White Hmong of Sayaboury share some similarities in the way they dress such as their head wrap and xauv. They wear xauv that consists of separate rings. Pictured is a modern five layer xauv.

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Hmong Leng Sayaboury wear a black shirt with short blue cuff on their tapered long sleeves. The cuff is usually about an inch. Appliqué runs down the front of the shirt opening, but it is usually folded over so that only the lining and needlework shows. The dab tsho is also sewn face down on the back of the shirt.

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I’ll admit that this shirt was a little difficult for me at first to wrap my head around as I’m so used to making White Hmong shirts. The dab tsho is attached differently.  Also, I was a little confused about attaching the handmade appliqué pieces that I bought for the front of the shirt. Usually, the lining of the shirt is blue and the appliqué is done directly on the shirt fabric. However, I’m not that great at appliqué and it’s quite tedious. I ended up piecing it together my way.  At least it looks traditional.

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They wear a black sev that consists of three sections and a pink or red sash that is either separate or directly attached to the sev. Like other Hmong Leng groups in Laos, they wear leg wraps or nrhoob. White Hmong don’t wear leg wraps anymore as they transitioned to pants.  Deceased White Hmong women are still dressed in leg wraps with their white skirt. The leg wraps are wrapped inwards for the living, and wrapped outwards for the dead. I didn’t grow up wearing leg wraps, occasionally I would opt for leg warmers because I tend to forget the right way to wrap.

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:: Moob Naav Tab Dlub::

Hmong Leng speak a different dialect than White Hmong, and it usually throws me off, even the written language is slightly different. This group of Hmong are typically referred to as “hmoob hnav tiab dub/ moob naav tab dlub” (Hmong that wear black skirts)  or shortened to “hmoob dub/moob dlub (Black Hmong). However this term “hmoob dub” isn’t exclusive to this group and is slightly misleading. It mostly refers to skirt which isn’t really black but a dark indigo from the dye. The indigo dye can permanently stain fingers and hands. 

IMG_6503-683x1024 Hmong Outfit Series :: Hmong Leng Sayaboury Hmong Outfit Series

Unlike other groups of Hmong Leng in Laos, the Hmong Leng of Sayaboury still keep the middle of the skirt or ntu tiab /nthus tab free of ribbons and appliqué. This allows them to show off their exquisite batik skills.  The bottom of the skirt or taw tiab / taab tab consists of cross stitch embroidery – usually orange, red, pink, and white thread is used and some pink appliqué runs along the width of the skirt. Lastly, the very bottom of the skirt is white without any appliqué on top.

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:: Outfit Details ::

Hmong Leng Sayaboury Shirt/ Tsho & Apron/ Sev

Silver Necklace/Xauv

Sash/ Hlab (old)

Hmong Skirt/ Tiab (41 X 20)

Hat/ Phuam Paj (old)

:: Photography ::

Nancy Vang

Thank you for reading! I can’t wait to wear this outfit for Hmong New Year. I’m probably going to switch out the hat with the blue one that I made for a past tutorial and pair it with a blue sash since my favorite color happens to be blue. Still debating on whether or not to wear leg wraps to New Year. Don’t forget to follow and share the blogpost!

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:: Special Thanks ::

I would like to thank Nancy for taking the time to take photos for this blog post and for a future upcoming blog post. Not only that, thank you Ka Vang for modeling for this series as well.

*Outfit details pertains to my outfit, and the links provided are from sellers that I personally purchased from.